Smoky charred lamb with warm spices and fresh herbs
Flat metal skewers work best for koftas because they help the meat grip and cook evenly. If using wooden skewers, soak 8 in cold water for at least 30 minutes. If you plan to cook in a frying pan rather than on a grill, skip the skewers altogether – a skewered kofta will not lie flat in most pans – and shape the mixture into logs instead.
Thinly slice half the onion and grate the other half, keeping them separate. Shred the red cabbage, cut the tomatoes into wedges, slice the cucumber on the diagonal and chop the parsley. A mandoline makes quick work of the onion and cabbage, but a sharp knife is fine too.
Combine the yoghurt, 2 tbsp of the olive oil, 1 grated garlic clove, the juice of half the lemon, and 1/4 tsp each of the salt and black pepper. Set aside in the fridge to firm up while you make the koftas. Toss the shredded red cabbage and sliced onion with the juice of the remaining lemon half and a pinch of salt, and set aside to lightly pickle.
Put the grated onion in a large bowl. Add the lamb mince, breadcrumbs, 2 grated garlic cloves, chopped parsley, 2 tsp each of cumin, ground coriander and paprika, 1 tsp ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper, the remaining 3/4 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp black pepper. Mix well with your hands.
Divide the mixture into 8 portions and shape onto the skewers, or into logs about 12cm long if you are cooking without them. Press firmly so they hold together.
Heat a large cast iron grill, or if you do not have one, a frying pan over medium-high heat with the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Cook the koftas in batches for 7–9 minutes per batch depending on thickness, turning to brown all over, until browned throughout with no pink in the centre. Remove to a warm plate while you cook the remaining koftas.
Warm the pitas in a dry pan for 1 minute each side, or wrap in foil and heat in the oven at 180°C for 5 minutes. Spread with yoghurt sauce, add the dressed cabbage, lettuce, tomato wedges and sliced cucumber along with the koftas, then drizzle with extra sauce and serve.
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